This time in Venice, I finally had the opportunity to visit the Berggruen Institute Europe at Casa dei Tre Oci on Giudecca. The Berggruen Institute, founded by Nicolas Berggruen, is one of those institutions I have followed from afar for quite some time. Its ambition is unusually broad: to create space for long-term thinking about democracy, technology, geopolitics, culture and, ultimately, what it means to be human. Casa dei Tre Oci, the striking neo-Gothic palazzo overlooking the lagoon, became the home of Berggruen Institute Europe after an extensive restoration. It is conceived as a “house of ideas”: a place for lectures, conversations, workshops, residencies and exhibitions, and for encounters between thinkers from Europe, China and the United States. I already feel connected to Berggruen through my subscription to and enthusiastic reading of Noema Magazine. It is one of the places where long-form essays about AI, technology, philosophy, democracy, economics and culture are still allowed to be genuinely long, and where complicated questions are not forced into reassuringly simple answers. I am equally fond of the small books published in the Tre Oci series. They often grow out of lectures and conversations held here and have featured thinkers including Giorgio Agamben, Rosi Braidotti, Francesca Bria, Peter Sloterdijk, Wang Hui and Slavoj Žižek. Small books, physically at least, dealing with decidedly large questions. One of the latest publications is Constructing Consciousness, which I now need to order and slowly chew my way through. It brings together three prize-winning essays approaching consciousness from strikingly different directions. The neuroscientist Anil Seth argues for understanding consciousness as a property of living systems rather than computation alone, while Xin Huang explores AI, tokens and brain-computer interfaces, and Xiaoben Liu considers the possibility of digital consciousness and the role of language in representing subjective experience. The visit also gave me the chance to see Joseph Kosuth’s exhibition The-exchange-value-of-language-has-fallen-to-zero. Kosuth, one of the central figures of conceptual art since the 1960s, has spent much of his career investigating the relationship between language, meaning and art. His work felt particularly at home in a building devoted to ideas. And in an age in which humans and machines are producing words in unprecedented quantities, the title of the exhibition has acquired an additional resonance. Unfortunately, I did not make it to Palazzo Diedo this time. Fortunately, I visited it two years ago. The restored palazzo is the home of Berggruen Arts & Culture in Venice, with some 4,000 square metres devoted to contemporary art and to encounters between artists, disciplines, cultures and historical periods. Two very different Venetian palazzi, but behind them lies an idea I find deeply sympathetic: that art and serious thinking still deserve physical places where people can meet, disagree, linger and spend rather more than 30 seconds considering a question. I look forward to returning to both when the Biennale brings us back to Venice in two years. Perhaps sooner, if Berggruen gives me a sufficiently good excuse.

09/29/2026 17:08:57


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